International 110 Fleet 46 History

POSTED FOR INFORMATION ONLY
This document is dependent upon Drawings which can be purchased when becoming a member of the 110 Class by paying member dues.

INSTRUCTIONS
For BUILDING & RIGGING
The INTERNATIONAL 110 CLASS RACING SLOOP
Prepared by
H. T. MARTIN
Chairman
Technical Committee
THE INTERNATIONAL 110 CLASS YACHT RACING ASSOCIATION
March 1953
2
TABLE of CONTENTS
Introduction page: 3
Section I. Making the Frames pages: 4 - 6
Section II. Chines, Stem & Stern page: 7
Section III. Making the Assembly Jig pages: 8 - 9
Section IV. Assembly of the Hull pages: 10 - 12
Section V. Planking the Hull pages: 13 - 14
Section VI. Deck Planking, Keelson, Deck Furring, pages: 15 - 17
Carlings, Breast Hooks, False Stem, Etc...
Section VII. Coamings, Splash Board, pages: 18 - 20
Floor Boards, & Thwart
Section VIII. Fittings & Hardware pages: 21 - 23
Section IX. Keel, Keelson Cover & Mast Step pages: 24 - 25
Section X. Mast, Boom, Spinnaker Pole, pages: 26 - 29
Rudder & Tiller
Section XI. Finishing & Painting pages: 30
Section XII. Rigging & Accessories pages: 31
- I N T R O D U C T I O N -
3
The International 110 Class racing sloop is a thoughbred in every respect.
Since the time of its conception in 1939 by C. Raymond Hunt, every effort to
keep it so has been made by the International 110 Class Yacht Racing
Association. In order to maintain uniformity only licenced builders were
allowed to build it in the past, and efforts to make changes have been
discouraged. The result has been a strictly one-design class. Twelve year old
boats still compete succesfully with the newest.
It is only after careful consideration by the Board of Governors and the class
membership that the decision has been made to permit "open building". This
does not mean that there has been any relaxation of strictness or departure from
the one-design principle which has proven so successful. Of necessity, certain
tolerances are permitted to allow for expansion and unavoidable frctional
inexactness, but not for the purpose of permitting any intentional deviations.
Builders are cautioned not only to forego intentional deviations, but to see that
the workmanship is of such quality that inexactness is kept to an irreducible
minimum.
In order to be accepted as a 110, to receive a registered number, and to race
in the 110 Class, every boat must be measured in and passed on by the
International 110 Class Yacht Racing Association. The Association will reject
boats which are not built with a high degree of skill, accuracy and workmanship.
The purpose of this booklet is to help the builder to acheive these results
with a minimum of effort and expense.
Read each section carefully in its entirety before starting any work.
_ _ _ _
S e c t i o n I
- M A K I N G t h e F R A M E S -
4
- Materials required -
Eastern or Northern spruce unless indicated.
Sizes shown throughout this booklet are finished dimensions.
Frame
No.
Deck Beam
(in inches)
Floor Beam
(in inches)
Side Frames (2 pcs.)
(in inches)
1 13/16 x 6 x 17 Cut w/ deck beam 13/16 x 6 x 16
2 13/16 x 6 x 27 " "
3 13/16 x 6 x 32 " "
4 13/16/ x 8 x 42 " 13/16 x 6 x 15-1/2
5 13/16 x 6 x 48 1-3/4 x 8 x 46 oak "
6 Cut w/ dk. bm. Fr. 5 1-3/4 x 8 x 49 oak 13/16 x 6 x 15
7 13/16 x 8 x 50 Cut w/ deck beam "
8 13/16 x 8 x 49 " 13/16 x 6 x 14-1/2
9 13/16 x 8 x 47 1-1/8 x 6 x 48 13/16 x 6 x 14
10 13/16 x 8 x 44 Cut w/ deck beam 13/16 x 6 x 13-1/2
11 13/16 x 8 x 40 " 13/16 x 6 x 13
12 13/16 x 6 x 33 " 13/16 x 6 x 12-1/2
13 13/16 x 6 x 25 " 13/16 x 6 x 12
14 13/16 x 6 x 15 13/16 x 6 x 11
Totals -
Deck Beams and Floor Beams Side Frames
13/16" x 6" x 21 lineal feet 13/16" x 6" x 18 lineal feet
13/16" x 8" x 19 lineal feet (or 13/16" x 2-1/4" x 35 lineal feet
if straight sides are used)
1-1/8" x 6" x 4 lineal feet
1-3/4" x 8" x 8 lineal feet (oak)
(makes 4 keel beams)
Gussets: 56 - 3/8 plywood (scrap from planking)
Screws: 450-#8 x 1" Flat Phillips wood screws (brass, bronze or SS)
Glue: Resorcin type such as Casophen- 3 pints (Epoxy resin- approx. 3 quarts
plus thickening agents.)
Temporary nailing: 2 lbs. 1-1/2" finish nails (An assortment of drywall screws
and a drill or power driver equiped with a Phillips bit wtoil l bper oevaes ier
and more affective in all applications.)
S e c t i o n I
- M A K I N G t h e F R A M E S -
5
- Preliminary Layout -
Tape down layouts C and D to your plywood table top. Be careful to check
the overall width. (See 49" dimension.)
The deck beams are slighty curved (1-1/2" crown in 5' or the arc of a circle
with a 25' 4" radius). This curve can be made by tracing off the curve from the
layout sheets C and D. Likewise, the floor beams have a curve twice that of the
deck beams (3" crown in 5' or the arc of a circle with a radius of 12' 8").
You will save time here by making up the deck beam and floor beam for
frame #8. The deck beam is 2-1/4" deep and the floor beam is 2-1/2" deep. They
will nest together on a piece of 13/16 spruce 8" wide and 49" long. Cut these out
carefully on the bandsaw. It will pay to smooth these up a little with a plane.
These will be used as templates.
Now cut all the pieces for the deck and floor beams to the approximate
lengths indicated in the table at the beginning of this section. Using the pieces
you have already made, mark the curves off and group them according to the
table. Mark each piece with its frame number and band saw it out. Lay the
pieces down on the full size layouts and mark off the diagonal cuts at each end.
Do an accurate job because this defines the curve of the chines. Leave the two
extra oak floor beams. These are best trimmed to fit once the hull is assembled.
A 3/8" x 5" cut out then has to be made in the top center of each deck beam.
This is to nest with a matching crossnotch in the deck furring piece (see drawing
1103 and 1104 if this is not clear). Do not waste time on the deck beams for
frames #6, #7, #8, and #9, because these get sawed off later to make the cockpit
opening. (This may also be done after the boat righted and before the deck is
planked).
Cut a 5/16" deep by 3/4" wide notch for drainage (limber hole) at the center
of every floor beam. The four oak floor beams should now be tapered to 1-1/8"
thickness at the ends. Leave about 8" at the center untapered. (See dwg 1104.)
The side frames can also be curved the same as the deck beams. Use the
deck beam again as a template and lay out two to each cut to length piece as
indicated in the table. These are cut off square to the length taken from the full
size layouts. Make this an accurate job, too. This cut also defines the curve of the
chines.
If you prefer to save a little wood and are tired of useing the bandsaw, it is
permissable to make a straight side. In this case, the side frames are cut to length
from 13/16"x 2 1/4" spruce, the exact length having been marked off from the
full size layouts. Do not forget to mark the pieces with the frame number.
Cut the required number of gussets from 3/8 marine plywood. If you wish
to use scraps, first rough cut the bottom and deck planking (see dwg. 1107). The
trim should give enough for the gussets. The full size layouts for frame 7 give
the shape of the gussets for that particular frame. Make them all this size. After
S e c t i o n I
- M A K I N G t h e F R A M E S -
6
assembly, you will find that the angle cuts on the gussets change, but it is easier
to trim those that do not fit exactly after the frame has been assembled.
- Frame Assembly -
Check the layouts again for overall width, and then cover with waxed paper
to prevent the glue from sticking to the layout. Temporary nail the two side
frame pieces in place over the layouts. (If you are using curved sides, the top and
bottom outside corner should be lined up with the layout. The curve of the side
frames will extend a little beyond the line on the layout.) Apply waterproof resin
glue to the side frames and one side of the gussets. Temporary nail the gussets in
place. Drill four holes top and bottom (a special drill which drills and
countersinks for a #8 x 7/8" screw will be a big time saver) and apply the screws
(see dwg. 1103 for approximate location of screws). Remove all the temporary
nails and set aside the two assemblies. Now temporary nail the deck and floor
beams in place over the layouts. Apply glue to the ends of the deck and floor
beams and also to the opposite sides of the four gussets which were fastened to
the side frames. Temporary nail the gussets to the deck and floor beams. Make
sure the outside edges line up all around with the outline on the full size layout.
Use four more screws at each joint. Make a horizontal pencil line across the frame
where the base line intersects. These lines will later be used for lining up. Also,
make a vertical line to indicate the vertical centerline line on the deck and floor
beam. Remove the temporary nails, trim off the gussets as required, and set
aside for drying.
Unless you happen to be able to get 24 ft. long plywood for the bottom and
sides, and unless you use the alternative arrangement of three 8 foot pieces for
the planking, frame 7 will need to be cut down for the plywood butt splice. Take
3/8" off the bottom of the floor beam and 3/8" off each of the two side frame
pieces. Do not disturb the diagonal cut at the end.
S e c t i o n I I
- C H I N E S , S T E M a n d S T E R N -
7
- Materials required-
Chines 4 pcs. 2" x 3"x 24' 6" Douglas or Oregon fir
Stem 1 pc. l 1/2" x 3 1/2"x 16 1/4" mahogany or oak
Stern 1 pc. 1 1/2 x 3 1/2" x 10 1/2 oak
(Alt. Chine 8 pcs. l" x 3"x 24' 6" Douglas or Oregon fir)
- Cutting the Chines -
One of the most difficult jobs is cutting the chines, particularly if they are
made from solid 2"x 3" stock, and this is much the best way. If there is a
professional mill nearby, it will be better to find out if they will do it
inexpensively. Remember that these pieces are over 24 feet long and hard to
handle, unless you have your circular saw built into a long table. The sections of
these pieces are best shown on sheet "C".
If you still want to try it, first cut a piece 18" or 20" long and the same
section (2"x 3") as the long pieces. This will serve as a trial piece to check that the
angle cuts are correct and that the fence is set at the correct distance from the saw
blade. Follow the notes on sheet "C".
A somewhat easier but much less desirable way to make the chines is in two
pieces. (See dwg. 1103.) With this construction there are bound to be voids
between the inner piece and the outer capping. The capping, therefore, should
be planed down to fit as snug as possible and copious amounts of mastic, such as
seam compound, used to fill the voids. Otherwise your chines will quickly rot
out. Professionally built boats with this construction have in some cases shown
trouble in a very short time.
- Stem & Stern -
Cut the mahogany (or oak) for the stem and stern pieces. These should be
made to the dimensions shown in the bill of material and will be planed down
later to fair in with the hull structure after it is assembled. These are not the
pieces which form the extreme end pieces of the boat. They come later and are
fastened into the mahogany blocks we are now making. (See dwg. 1103.)
S e c t i o n I I I
- M A K I N G t h e A S S E M B L Y J I G -
8
- Materials required -
4 pcs. 2"x 6"x 12 ft. building lumber
1 pc. 2"x 6"x lO ft. "
l2 pcs. 2"x 4"x lO ft. "
8 pcs. 3/8" x 4" carriage bolts , w/ nuts and flat washers
3 lbs. 12d common nails
3 lbs. 3/16~ hardware store turnbuckles
100 ft. (4 pcs.) piano wire approx. .040" diameter
(2x6 and 2x4 are nominal lumber sizes,. Building lumber should be selected for
straightness )
- Selecting a Space -
It is best to select a space large enough where you can work inside. The
floor, of course, should be reasonably level. If such a space is not available the
boat can be framed up out of doors. For proper setting of the glue, a temperature
of 70° or above is required. So if you plan to work out of doors, wait until it is
warm weather before you start the planking operation. Also, if you work out of
doors you will need a large tarpaulin to keep the rain off, about 30 ft. by 8 ft. You
can use this later as a winter boat cover.
- Rails & Diagonals -
Drawing 1107 shows two views of the assembly jig. First study this
carefully. You will see that it is made up of two long pieces of 2x6 to which are
nailed a series of uprights. These uprights serve to locate and hold each frame in
place. The diagonal cross bracing which goes underneath the two lengthwise 2x6
pieces is used to keep the jig in alignment.
Start with the four 12 ft. 2x 6's which you have selected for straightness.
Fasten each pair, end to end, with a splice piece of 2x6, 2 ft. long. The splice piece
is, of course nailed on. These two assemblies are the main rail members. Place
them parallel to each other and spaced 24" apart across the inside (see dwg. 1107)
with the splice pieces towards the inside. Now cut nine pieces of 2x4, 3'10" long.
These make the diagonals. Nail them on top of the 2x6 rails roughly at a 45
degree angle, making sure that the rail pieces are kept 24" apart and that the ends
of the rails are square across the ends. Cut two pieces of 2x6, 30" long. These go
across the ends of the rail pieces and are nailed into them. They should stick
about 1 1/2" beyond the rail members.
- Positioning the Frame Locators -
After all the diagonals and end pieces are nailed on, turn the whole
assembly over, so the diagonals are underneath. Pick one or the other end to be
the bow end and measure back 3 1/2" from the end of one of the rails and draw a
line across on top. Making sure you are square across, make a mark across the
top of the other rail member to line up with the first one. This line represents
S e c t i o n I I I
- M A K I N G t h e A S S E M B L Y J I G -
9
Station O and a 2x4, 27" long is then nailed on top of the rails so its vertical
forward edge lines up with Station 0. (See dwg. 1107.)
Hook your steel tape on at this point and measure down the rail, marking
off the distances indicated on the drawing on the top of both of the rails. Nail on
the cross piece at Station 15. It is best now to level up the whole frame. If you are
outside, drive a number of stakes into the ground, one at each corner of the
diagonal bracing. Get the frame as nearly level as you can both lengthwise and
crosswise.
Cut four more cross pieces from 2 x 4 stock, each 27" long. These will go at
Stations 1, 2, 13 and 14, but first nail on the vertical uprights, 6 1/2" long to the
edge of the cross pieces. Line up the vertical face of the uprights with the marks
at Stations 1, 2, 13 and 14, and nail the cross pieces in place. Study dwg. 1107 to
see where these go. The cross piece itself does not go at the mark on the rail.
Cut 20 pieces of 2x4 stock 16 5/8" long and nail them to the sides of the rail
members as indicated on the drawing, making sure they are vertical either with a
level or a square. This then provides for all the frame locators. Be sure you place
them on the correct side of the mark. 1-7 go one way and 8-15 are opposite.
- Alignment Wires & Supports -
The purpose of the two end structures is to hold the line-up wires. Select
for straightness and cut two pieces of 2x4, 5' 4" long, and two pieces 30" long.
Nail them together as shown on the drawing. Bolt on the four corner uprights.
These are cut 26 3/4" long from 2x4 stock. Also cut four diagonal braces from 2x4
stock. These are 34" long with a 45 degree cut at one end. Bolt one end of the
diagonal to the rails; make sure the corner uprights are vertical; then nail the
diagonal brace into the upright.
The two cross piece assemblies now should be nailed into place on the
corner uprights. This job must be done very carefully to make sure these pieces
are horizontal. Use your level. The top surface is located 21 1/4" above the top
of the rail. When you are fastening the one on the opposite end, use your level
and sight down to the other end to see that both are in line.
The last part of the job is rigging the four line up wires. Cut shallow saw
notches in the edge of the cross pieces at Station 0 and Station 15. These notches
must be on center halfway between the two rails. Rig the bottom center wire and
draw it up tight with a turnbuckle at one end. Carefully locate with a plumb bob
the position of the upper centerline wire. This must be exactly above the lower
wire. Measure out 2'6" from the upper center line and locate the two base line
wires. Cut in four notches in the top of the cross piece edge, and rig the two
wires. Check again at both ends to be sure these wires are exactly horizontal
across and are tight so there is virtually no sag.
S e c t i o n I V
- A S S E M B L Y o f t h e H U L L -
10
- Materials requiredcompleted
Frames from Section I.
" Chines, etc. from Section II.
" Jig from Section III.
88 pcs. #12x2" flat head wood screws, brass, bronze or S.S.
4 pcs. flat head wood screws, galv., bronze or S.S.
4 pcs. #14x3" flat head wood screws, galv., bronze or S.S.
30 'C' clamps with 5" openings. (You will also need these
later for clamping the mast.)
- Setting up the Frames-
Place all the frames in the proper sequence and location in the jig. In
addition to having them in the proper sequence, be sure that frames #1 through
#7 have the side frame pieces forward the frames #8 through #14 have the side
frame pieces aft. (See dwg, 1104 if this is not clear.)
Refasten and tighten the upper centerline wire. The frames should be placed
upside down with the deck beam at the bottom.
Now bring frame #1 to Station #1 and clamp the deck beam to the
positioning stop on the jig.
Before tightening the clamps each frame should be checked very carefully
for alignment. First, be sure that the horizontal pencil lines on the frame, line up
with the longitudinal wires outside the jig. This can be done by sighting across
the wires, being sure that the pencil marks are in line, or a better way, is to clamp
a straight edge in line with the horizontal pencil mark. Then raise the frame up
until the edge of the straight edge just barely touches the two wires. Using a
plumb bob, check to see that the vertical center line of the frame lines up with the
longitudinal center wires of the jig. Then tighten the clamps. Again using the
plumb bob be sure that the frame is vertical and does not lean forward or aft.
Nail one end of a batten to the end cross piece of the jig and temporary nail the
batten also to the floor beam of frame #1, so it holds the frame in a vertical
position. Don't cut the batten off. It can also brace the next frames to follow.
Proceed with all the frames in the same manner.
When this is finished, sight down the center. The horizontal and vertical
pencil lines should make a straight line. Correct any frames that may be out of
true. Take time to do this job as near perfectly as possible. Also, it will be well
worth your while to check the floor beams to be sure they are square crosswise
with the centerline of the boat. This can be done easily by fastening a piece of
wire to the jig at the bow end - exactly on the centerline. Swing this from one
corner of each frame to the other corner. The two corners should, of course, be
the same distance.
If they are not, hold them in line with some additional battens tacked on.
Keep the space clear of battens where the four chines go. As a double check, use
your steel tape and check to see if the station distances check with the
S e c t i o n I V
- A S S E M B L Y o f t h e H U L L -
11
dimensions on dwg. 1102. The actual station is the plane of the joint between the
plywood gusset and the side frame.
Sight along all the outside curves. They must be smooth with nothing
sticking out. Frame #7, of course, will be in 3/8" to allow for the butt splices.
By the way, if it is late at night and you are tired, better let it wait until
tomorrow. Don't hurry this part of the job.
- Fastening the Chines -
The chines fit against the top and bottom ends of the side frame pieces and
also, against the slanting end cuts on the floor and deck beams. Starting with the
two bottom chines (these go on top), hold these in place and check to see that the
stop back in the chine lines up with the after corner of the side frame Station 1
through 7, and with forward corner for Stations 8 through 14. As you check
towards the ends of the boat, you will notice that the bevel cut in the chine,
which receives bottom planking, sticks up more than it should. This will be
planed down later. Otherwise, the chines should fit nicely and fairly into place.
If they don't, check carefully. You may have them upside down, or they may be
the chines for the deck. If absolutely necessary, do a little filing on the frame 9 to
make the chines fit. This should not be necessary, if your work up until now has
been accurate.
Fasten the chines on using #12 x 2" screws to fasten them to the slanting
ends of the floor and deck beams. Start at frame 7 and 8. Work both sides of the
boat at once to avoid setting up strains that will pull the frames out of line.
Progress foward one frame at a time, and then aft from the center. Clamps
should, of course, be used to hold the chines in place for drilling and fastening,
but don't try to clamp beyond one station past the one you are fastening. Two
screws are used to fasten the chine at each frame. One screw is horizontal and the
other vertical. They should be countersunk - the vertical ones a little deeper near
the bow and stern, because the wood here will have to be planed down some,
perhaps 1/8". It is hard to get at the vertical screws for the deck chine, so leave
them out until the boat is turned over.
When you got to the bow and stern, the chines will need to be cut on an
angle so that they fit one against the other at the centerline of the boat. The ends
will also be cut off square with the centerline of the boat at a point 3 1/2" back
from the extreme bow and stern which is also Station 0 and Station 15. Note that
the width across at this point is 3" (see dwg. 1102 and 1103) so mark the station
position and cut back the inside of the chines until they measure 3" across. Leave
the chines a little long for the time being.
Study the detail in the upper left corner of dwg. 1103. You will see that
there are two screws which go in at an angle. The one on the port side is a little
forward and 2 1/2" long. The other is 3" long and slightly aft. This is so they will
miss each other at the center. The holes are counterbored with a 5/8" drill; in
S e c t i o n I V
- A S S E M B L Y o f t h e H U L L -
12
about 1/4". Glue snd screw all four ends together, making sure that the pieces
meet on the centerline of the boat.
- Stem & Stern -
Make a saw cut about 1/2" deep and 1-1/2" back from Station 0 and 1-1/2"
forward of Station 15. This cut goes in the top of the deck chines and the under
side of the bottom chines (remember the boat is upside down). Notch out so it
will receive the stem and stern pieces (see dwg. 1103). Trim these stem and stern
pieces so that the top to bottom dimension overall at Station 0 is 20-3/8", and at
Station 15 is 14-3/8" when these pieces are slid into place. The upper and lower
chines may have to be pulled towards each other slightly to achieve this. You
will have to remove the centerline wire to get these pieces in place. It will be a
good idea to drill a 1/2" hole where the centerline goes through and replace the
centerline after clamping and gluing these in place. This line will continue to
serve as a check if you may think you have pulled something out of line during
the planking operation.
- Fairing up -
After the stem and stern pieces are glued and clamped in place, the frame
then needs to be faired up. If you hold a batten along the side starting at the
bow, you will see that all the forward edges of the side frame pieces and the stem
piece stick out. The proper bevel can be cut back with a block plane. Be careful
not to cut beyond the back edge because this controls the proper width of the
boat. From Station 8 on back towards the stern, it is the back edge that is planed
off and the forward edge is the control point.
The rabit cut into the bottom chine members should blend in properly with
the curve of the floor beams. In the center part of the boat, no fairing up should
be required, but as the chine goes out toward both ends, the curve of the bottom
decreases and the angle of the chine should be reduced to blend in. This can be
checked by holding a small piece of plywood against the end of the floor beam
and the rabit in the chine, and checking how much has to be planed off. In other
words, when the plywood bottom is put on it must fit in nicely and not stick up
above the chines. You may also wish to fair up the floor beam curve, but don't
take much off or your boat will not measure exactly. The deck planking does not
go on until the boat is turned right side up, so don't try to fair up for this until
then. You can now trim off the chines so they are flush with the stem and stern
pieces. If the glue has thoroughly set, drill the 7/16" diameter holes and drive in
the soft pine stopwaters as shown on dwg. 1103. These go in both at the bow and
the stern.
Now is the time to fasten in the two other oak floor beams which you made
up and which take the keel bolts. Trim the ends so they fair in with tko rest of
the bottom floor beams, and fasten them to the chines with two screws the same
as those at each frame. .
S e c t i o n V
- P L A N K I N G t h e H U L L -
13
- Materials required -
2 pcs. Bottom 12' x 4' x 3/8" Marine fir plywood*
2 pcs. Sides 12' x 4' x 3/8" Marine fir plywood*
1 pc. Rudder post block 7" x 5-3/4" x l-1/4" mahogany or oak
110 pcs #8 x 5/8" brass flat head wood screws, (for butts)
1032 #8 x7/8" flat head wood screws, (fasten planking to chines
and frames)
16 pcs #8 x 1-1/4" flat head, brass wood screws (fasten planking to
frame #7)
5 pts, Glue - Resorcin resin type such as Caseophen
5 or 6 cheap brushes for applying glue.
*See dwg. 1107 for economical cuts if more than one boat is built.
- Planking the Bottom -
Place the forward piece of 3/8" plywood on top of the boat framework and
locate the after edge of the plywood 3-1/4" back from the back edge of the floor
beam at Station 7. Center the picee. Clamp or hold down the forward end and
mark from the underside, the outline of the outside of the chine. Remove the
piece and make a new line which is 1-1/4" inside of the outline. With a handsaw,
cut around this line. Try the piece in place again and trim as neeessary to make it
fit neatly, keeping the after edge 3-1/4" back from the back edge of the floor
beam at Station 7. Repeat the process for the after portion of the bottom. Try
both pieees in place until they both fit neatly in place. Mark pencil lines across
the pieces to indicate the centerline of the floor beams at each station. This will
help to keep the screws in line and into the floor beam. Also, mark off the area
covered by the butt splice. Remove both pieces and fit the butt splice, a piece of
plywood 4'x 8" wide. It must go snug up against the chines. Trim it to fit. The
forward edge of the butt splice piece lines up with the forward edge of the floor
beam. Glue and fasten the butt splice to the floor beam. Use #8x7/8~ screws,
spaced on 3" centers.
If you aren't very good at spacing 3" by eye, it is best to mark all the screw
locations on the bottom pieces. These go 3 ' centers all the way around the edges
and across each floor. Spot the locations for two rows of scrows forward of the
bottom joint and two rows aft of the joint. These screws are to fasten the bottom
planking to the butt splice.
You will need to work rather fast on the next part, so if at all possible, have
a friend who likes to drive screws help you. Apply glue copiously all around to
the hull framework where it will receive the forward bottom plank. Work fast.
Also, wet the edges of the plywood all the way around with glue. If some runs
underneath, so much the better. Put the bottom planking in place making sure it
fits all around. Give your friend a pocket full of screws and a Yankec
screwdriver. You take the electric drill fitted with a drill suitable for #8 X 7/8"
screws with a countersink on it. Drill four holes, two on each side of the boat,
S e c t i o n V
- P L A N K I N G t h e H U L L -
14
into the floor beams at Station 6. and put in screws. Pull the screws down not
less than 1 h 6~ below the surface, so there will be space for the putty to cling.
Now, you and your friend might prefer to climb up on top of the planking. Your
weight will help to hold it down. Run a row of screws down the center with a
couple of screws in each floor beam. Then come back to Station 7 and work
forward along the chines. Put in about six screws, then cross over to the other
side and do six there, and so on until you get to the bow. Don't waste any time
because the glue is setting up. Next put in the screws at the butt splice. These
screws are shorter #8 x 5/8" long, so don't drill quite so deep. Last finish up with
the rest of the screws into the floor beams. At frame 7, it is neccssary to fasten
through two thicknesses of plywood so uso #8 x 1-1/4" screws. Space them to
miss the screws underneath.
The procedure for the after part is the same.
- Planking the Sides -
The application of the sides is sufficicntly similar, so the detail will not be
repeated, except to say that it is impractical to try to put both port and starboard
side planking pieces on at the same time and, furthermore, this should not be
neccssary because the bottom planking will stiffen up the hull sufficiently so that
there is little likelihood of it being pulled out of line by working one side at a
time.
- Rudder Post Block -
Drill a 3/8" diameter hole 2-1/8" back from the 5-3/4" edge of the rudder
post block. Also, mark a point exactly on center and 2-l/8" forward of the
forward edge of the floor beam at Station 11. Do this on the inside by climbing
under the boat, Drill a 3/8" hole up through the bottom plywood at this point.
Using a 3/8" bolt as a clamp now glue and clamp the rudder post block in place.
Also, from the outside drill holes and drive fourteen #8 x 7/8" screws into the
block to fasten it to the bottom plywood.
- Fairing in the chines -
Now you can round off the bottom chine pieces so they make a smooth
curve and blend in with the plywood. It will probably also save time if you now
give the bottom a prime coat, letting the paint soak down into the cracks while
the boat is upside down. Of course, don't do this until the glue is thoroughly
dry. You might also wish to putty up the screw heads while it is still easy to get
at the bottom. Put in the putty after the primer is dry.
S e c t i o n V I
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- C A R L I N G S , S T E M & S T E R N -
15
Material required-
Deck 2 pcs. 4'x 8' x 3/8" marine fir plywood
(see how to cut deck at cockpit on dwg. 1107)
Keelson 1 pc. 12' 4" x 6-5/8" x l" spruce
For'd deck furring 1 pc. 7' 2-5/8" x 5"x 3/4" spruce
Aft deck furring 1 pc. 6' 7" x 5" x 3/4" spruce
Deck carlings 2 pcs. 7' 6" x 2-1/2"x 1/2" spruce
Breast hooks 2 pcs. l4-1/2" x 9-1/2" x 1-1/2" pine or spruce
False stem 1 pc. 20" x 3-1/2" x 3" oak or mahogany
False stern 1 pc. 14" x 3-1/2" x 3" oak or mahogany
400pcs. #8x 7/8" flat head, brass, wood screws
(deck to chine, deck beam and carling)
24 pes. #8xl" flat head, galv.,wood screws
(deck furring to deck beams)
44 pcs. #10xl" flat head, galv., wood sercws
(breast hooks to chines, carlings to deck beams,- butt blocks to deck beams)
48 pcs. #12 x 2" flat head, bronze, wood screws
(chines to deck beams, keelson to floor beams)
2 pcs. #14 x 2-1/2" flat head, galv., wood screws
(keelson to floor beam at Station 9)
7 pcs. #16 x 3" flat head, galv., wood screws
(false stem and stern to boat)
2 pints Resorein resin glue
1 pint non-hardening seam compound
Out of the Jig ! -
Put some temporary blocking under the chines at Station 4 and Station 11.
Remove the clamps and lift the boat out of the jig. You will need at least one
person to help lift it out. Turn the boat right side up and use two padded blocks
at Stations 4, 7, and 11 to support the boat. Arrange the padding so that most of
the weight is taken out at the chines. Lay some temporary floor boards on top of
the floor beams so you won't walk on the bottom of the boat.
Put in the #12 x 2" screws which fasten the deck chine to the frame (those
that you couldn't reach when the boat was upside down). Fair up the deck beams
in the same manner that you faired up the floor beams. Refer to Section IV,
paragraph 4 again.
- Breast hooks -
Cut the 1-1/2" pine breast hooks so they fit in between the two chines at the
bow and stern. The top of the breast hook must be flush with the cutout in the
chines which receives the plywood deck. Also, if you study dwg, 1104, you will
see that the lower part of these pieces is cut on a 45 degree bevel, so they hook
under the sloping part of the chine. A shelf is made in the upper back edge of the
S e c t i o n V I
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16
breast hook. This shelf is 1-1/2" wide and is 3/4" deep, to receive the deck
furring at the bow and stern. Study dwg. 1104. The breast hooks are glued and
fastened with three #10 wood screws on each side. These screws go down
through the chine and are countersunk into the cutout in the chine. (Breast
hooks may also be made from 3/4" plywood fitted under the deck furring after it
has been installed. Sides of breast hooks are beveled, screwed and glued to
chines.
- Keelson -
The keelson extends from Frame 2 to Frame 10. It is not neccssary to glue
the keelson to the frames. It is fastened to each floor beam with two #12 x 2"
bronze wood screws at each floor beam. Be careful at Frames 5 1/2, 6, and 6 1/2
to space these screws so they will not interfere with the keel bolts. Dwg. 1104
shows the keel bolt locations. At Frame 9 use two #14 x 2 1/2" galvanized wood
screws. (The boats are sometimes hoisted at this point.)
- Deck Furring -
The deck furring is next to go on. Press it into the notches in the deck beams
and also onto the shelf in the breast hook. Mark underneath the furring on both
sides of the deck beam where it crosses the furring. Then remove the furring and
cut a 3/8" deep groove across for each of the frames. Fasten the furring to each
deck beam with two #8 x 1" galvanized wood screws.
- Planking the Deck -
The fore and aft deck pieces are next fitted into place (see dwg, 1107).
Follow the same procedure used in planking the bottom (see section V,
paragraph 2). The after edge of the forward planking is cut off flush with the
after edge of the deck beam at Station 5. Likewise, the after deck is cut off flush
with the forward edge of the deck beam at Station 10. After you are sure the
decking will fit neatly into place, glue and screw it on with #8 x 7/8" screws
spaced 3" on centers.
- Cutting Out the Cockpit -
Dwg. 1102 shows the dimensions for the cockpit cutout. These dimensions
are to the outside of the mahogany coaming, so subtract 1/2" for the thickness of
the deck carling and mark the tops of the deck beams. The coamings slope
slightly outwards at the top, 3/4" in 5" or 8-1/2°. Starting at the marks you have
made across the tops ef the deck beams mark this angle on each of the deck
beams at Stations 6, 7, 8 and 9. As an extra precaution, clamp a 2x4 across at
Frame 8 to the upper gussets. This 2x4 must be fastened under the deck beam at
this station. The purpose of the 2x4 is to keep the chines from springing in or out
when you cut the deck beams off. Now cut off the deck beams at frames 6, 7, 8
and 9 along the angled mark you have made.
S e c t i o n V I
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17
Save the pieces of deck beam you have cut out, and from them, make up the
four blocks shown on dwg. 1104 (deck plan) at Stations 5 and 10. These blocks
serve two purposes. They help make the deck splice and they also serve to back
up the deck carling at those locations. The end of the block which fits up against
the chine is cut off square and the other end is cut at the same 8-1/2° angle which
you used to cut off the deck beam. Also, looking down on top of the block at
Frame 5, you wi11 see that it should be cut on a fore and aft angle. This angle is
roughly 1/4" across the 13/16" thickness of the block. Glue and fasten these
blocks to the deck beams with #10 x 1-1/2" galvanized screws. Use two screws
in each block.
Now fit and spring the two carlings into place. Fasten them to the end of
each deck beam with two #l0 x 1-1/2" galvanized screws. The top edge of the
carling should be flush with the top of the deck beam. You will need to plan it
slightly to fair it in.
- Finishing up the Deck -
Fit the two remaining pieces of deck planking into place. These should fit
neatly into the chine along the outside edge. Make sure the butts at both ends fit
tightly. Don't finish up the inside edge yet. Glue and screw the deck pieces
down with #8 x 7/8" brass screws spaced on about 3" centers. Now you can
plane the inside edge off flush with the inside of the carling and take out the 2x4
temporary brace.
- False Stem and Stern -
Make up the false stem and stern pieces (see dwg. 1104). Rough cut these
out. Don't try to fair them in too carefully until they are fastened in place. Cover
the ends of the boat with a non-hardening seam compound. Use plenty and let it
squeeze out when you fasten on the end pieces. It is better not to glue these
pieces in because they frequently got banged up and sometimes need to be
roplaced. It will be a good idea now to give the deck a prime coat and putty up
the screw heads.
S e c t i o n V I I
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- F L O O R B O A R D S & T H W A R T -
18
- Materials required -
2 pcs. 16' x 7" x 1/2" mahogany
l pc. 5' x 3 1/2" x 1-1/2" mahogany (if solid thwart is used)
1 pc. 16' x 7"x 1/2" mahogany (if bridge deck is used)
1pc. 4' x 8'x 3/8" Marine or exterior plywood for floor boards,
(see comments following)
1 pc. 1/8"x 5"x 5-1/2" rubber for mast bumper
66 pcs. #8 x 1" flat head, bronze, wood screws (for coaming)
8 pcs. #10-32 x 3/4" flat head, brass, machine screws
(splash board to metal brackets)
6 pcs. #l2 x 2" flat head bronze, wood screws
(for coaming at center)
- Coamings -
The location and dimensions for the cockpit coaming are shown on dwg.
1102. Additional views are also shown on dwg. 1103 frame 5 and frame 10 and
also on dwg. 1104. You will probably save time and the possibility of spoiling
the mahogany stock if you start with sevcral pieces of box board (heavy
cardboard) fastened together to make a strip 10' 9" long and 7" wide. Cut this out
until the center portion fits down flush with the bottom of the deck carling, and
the front and back part fits down snug along the deck. The front part is curved
inward to the center of the boat at a point 22-3/4" forward of the cockpit
opening. This will take a little cutting and trying before you get it to fit properly.
With the template clamped in place you will notice that it extends somewhat
below the carling at the center of the boat, when the front and back ends are held
flush. Using the carling as a ruler, mark the back side of the box board template.
Also, mark the proper heights above the deck as shoun on dwg. 1102. Cut the
template out to these lines and transfer the outline to a piece of 1/2" mahogany
10' 9" long and 7" wide. Leave an 1/8" or so excess when you cut out the
mahogany.
The coamings should be made to fit neatly and tight all around when they
are sprung into place. Otherwise, you will get leaks and water seepage which
helps to start rot. As an extra precaution, paint the carling and deck beams at
Station 5 and Station 10 with a rot preventative and stick down a band of black
cloth electrician's tape all the way around the upper edge of the cockpit opening.
This will help seal the crack. Fasten both sides of the coaming with #8 x 1"
bronze screws in a staggered row on 6" centers. If you want to do a fancy job,
these can be countersunk and plugged with mahogany plugs. The part which
extends over the deck, both fore and aft, is fastened from underneath with #8 x 1"
screws; 5 screws forward and 3 aft. Don't join the two front edges together yet.
First cut out the knife-like piece of coaming which fits along the center of the
deck and goes between the two pieces of side coaming. Make this 9"x 2-1/2".
S e c t i o n V I I
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- F L O O R B O A R D S & T H W A R T -
19
Fasten this piece in place from underneath with three #l2 x 2" screws and then
fasten the two side pieces into it with two #8 x 1" screws on each side.
The end pieces of coaming should now be cut and fitted so they go in place
snugly against the side coaming. Fasten them to the deck beams with a
staggered row of screws. Also, put in a screw through from the outside of the
side coaming and into the four ends of the end pieces. Fasten in the rubber mast
bumper. See frame 5 on dwg. 1103.
- Splashboard -
Make up the splashboard as indicated on dwg. 1104. If you already have
the fittings for the boat, find the metal brackets which hold the board on (section
VIII, paragraph 5) .and fasten it in place with machine screws.
- Thwart and Bridgedeck -
There have been a number of variations made on the thwart or bridge deck.
Two preferred arrangements are shown on dwg. 1102. These designs have the
advantage that the jib leads are better because they are higher. Also, the twin
winches are more convenient. The drawings go into some little detail, so this will
not be repeated here. The bridge deck also serves as a small locker for odds and
ends. The simplest arrangement is shown on dwgs. 1103 and 1104. In this case
the main sheet leads down to a pulley and cleat on the keelson. Build whichever
you prefer and install it in the boat.
- Floorboards -
The floorboard arrangements also vary to quite an extent. Those shown on
the plans are somewhat elaborate and if you have enough spruce left over, you
may wish to use this arrangement. The details are on dwg. 1104. The boards are
1/2' thick and can be made of spruce, pine, or even teak.
Another floor, which is found on many of the boats, is made from 3/8"
marine plywood. You may have some of this left over from the planking. The
pieces are fastened down to the top of the floor beams with #8 x7/8" brass screws
so as to cover the entire cockpit area. (Fastening plywood floorboards may not
be necessary if provisions are made by notching (to gussetts) or blocking
(underneath between frames) that will prevent them from shifting while sailing.)
The main thing to remember is to provide two lift out sections on each side
of the keelson between Frames 6 and 8 so that the boat can be bailed. This is a
requirement. Also, the entire cockpit area must be covered so as to prevent any
chance of stepping on the bottom planking. Be careful, too, to avoid any places
where a person's foot might get caught.
There are various opinions on the necessity of floorbonrds under the fore
and aft decks. The avid racing skippers frequently don't have any here. Maybe
they think the boat is a little lighter. If you do put floorboards under both ends,
you will find it much easier to pull sail bags, etc., out from underneath. Also,
S e c t i o n V I I
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20
whatever you have stowed there is not as likely to be will not be as likely to be
swimming in a pool of bilge water.
S e c t i o n V I I I
- F I T T I N G S & H A R D W A R E -
21
- General -
The fittings and hardware in general may be purchased from any of the
marine supply houses. There are, however, several fittings such as the bow and
stern chocks, the chain plates, rudder post and rudder cap, etc., which are
special.
As a convenience, Merriman Bros. Inc , 185 Armory Street, Boston, Mass.,
will furnish a complete set of fittings for a 110. In the list which follows and on
the plans, the Merriman fitting numbers are used as a reference and a means of
identification. Fittings equivalent to these should be used.
-List of Parts -
Bow chock (46141) This is screwed into the deck and false stem with 4, #14 x
2" bronze flat head wood screws (See dwg. 1104)
Stern chock (4S141) This is screwed onto the deck with 4, #14 x 2" bronze
flat head wood screws(See dwg. 1104)
6" mooring cleat (2 required, bow and stern) (514). Bolt through deck. and
deck furring with 4, 5/16''x 3'' bronze flat head bolts, nuts and
Jib stay deck fitting (46140). Bolt through deck beam at Station 2 with 1/4" x
3-1/2" bronze flat head bolts, nuts, and washers - 2 required. Screw into
the deck and furring with 1, #l4 x l-1/2" bronze flat head wood screw
Splashboard brackets - 2 required (46133). See Section VII, Paragraph 3.
Chainplates - 2 required (46131)(46120). Study dwg. 1103. You will need 2 pcs.
of 2" x 2" fir 13" long. Cut at 45° as shown on the drawing and glue and
fasten to the underside of the chine with #10 x 1-1/2" galvanized wood
screws. Fasten the chainplates down to the deck with 1/4" bolts.
List fastenings for chainplates:
6 pcs. #l0 x 1-1/2" galvanized flat hesd wood screws
8 pcs. 1/4"x 4" bronze flat head bolts
2 pcs. 1/4"x 4" bronze round head bolts
10 pcs. 1/4" bronze nuts
12 pcs. 1/4" flat washers
Jib sheet track and fittings (633)(637)(367c). See dwg. 1104,
The jib sheet track is fastened down, starting 6" back from the chainplate
fitting. Use #6 x l-1/4" screws spaced every 2". The end stops serve also as
spinnaker fairleads and these are fastened with #10 x 1/4" screws. Slide the
jib block fitting (367c) onto the track before fastening on the end stops. On
the plans, the forward end stop is shown facing outwards. Many of the
boats are sailed with the hook end inwards. This reduces chances of the jib
sheet catching, particularly if a cork is stuffed under the hook when not in
use. As an extra precaution, some boats have added screws to make 1"
spacing on the jib track for about 6" each side of Station 9. The large jib may
S e c t i o n V I I I
- F I T T I N G S & H A R D W A R E -
22
otherwise tend to pull the track off. Some boats even have bolts made from
1/8" brass rod, which extend through the chine at this location.
List of required fastenings:
100 pcs. #6 x 1-1/4" bronze round head wood screws
8 pcs. #10 x 1-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws
2 pcs. 5/8" bronze sail track x 6 feet long
Rudder port - (l-1/4" o.d. 1/8" wall brass tube x 19-3/8" long
with pipe thread up 1"on one end
Fitting this tube which acts as the rudder port must be done very carefully
to be sure first that it is plumb in the boat, and second to be sure it is tight at
the bottom and will not leak. Work inside under the deck and locate
carefully a point which is 2-1/8" forward of the deck beam at Station 11 and
exactly on the centerline of the boat. The centerline marks on the frame can
serve as a guide. Drill a 1/8" hole up through the furring and the deck.
Now from above drill a hole 1-l/4" in diameter through the deck and
furring. Also, drill down into the rudder block about 1" deep with the 1-
1/4" diameter drill. The outer part of the hole through the plywood bottom
is drilled l-l/8". This is to engage the threads on the end of the brass tube.
Push the brass tube down through the deck, wipe some white lead or heavy
paint on the threads and screw the tube down into the block with pipe
wrench. The end of the tube should project about 1/16" below the bottom
plywood. Fasten the rudder port deck flange (46129) down to the deck with
four #10 x 1-1/4" bronze screws.
Main sheet deck block (509N)
Screw down to the deck with four #l2 x l-1/4" bronze flat head wood
screws, Locate 21-1/2" back from the cockpit on the centerline of the boat.
Thwart hardware
Depending on which thwart arrangement you have selected, there is some
difference in the number and type of fittings required. The minimum is
shown on the deck plan of dwg. 1104. Three 4" jam cleats (498) are required
Two are located on the thwart and one on the keelson. With this
arrangement, fasten a block (509N) to the keelson about 6" from the cleat.
The mainsheet should lead up just behind the thwart. The winch (595) is
located on the center of the thwart. Fastenings for the winch are three #10 x
l-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws. Fastenings for the cleats are six #l2 x
2", and for the mainsheet block four #12 x1-1/4" bronze flat head wood
screws.
The other two arrangements shown on dwg. 1102 require two winches and
two extra cleats. In the case of the bridge deck, the mainsheet cleat is a
S e c t i o n V I I I
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23
special fitting (403S). Neither of these two arrangements have any fittings
located on the keelson.
Two cleats (522)
Locate on the inside of the coaming at Station 5. (See dwg. 1103, Frame 5)
Floatation must be provided in every 110.
This keeps the boat from sinking, if it should ever become swamped.
Closing off the frame to make a bulkhead at Station 1 and Station 14 is not
recommended, because it invites rot and also, causes peeling of the outside
paint. Either use two five gallon sealed galvanized tanks made from light
weight galvanized steel sheet (.020" thick) or use two Styrofoam blocks (see
dwg. 1104). These should be strapped into place. If you use styrofoam,
fasten a piece of galvanized wire mesh at Station 1 and 14 to prevent poking
holes with the spinnaker pole or paddle.
.
S e c t i o n I X
- K E E L , K E E L S O N C O V E R & M A S T S T E P -
24
- Materials required -
1 pc. Keel casting (from approved pattern )
6 pcs. 1/2"x 5" galvanized flat head countertsunk, or French
head bolts
6 pcs. ea. 1/2" galvanized nuts & washers, galvanized
1 pint non-hardening mastic
1 pc. 7/8"x 6-5/8"x 4' 3" mahogany (hd.-wd.) keelson cover
10 pcs. #10 x 1-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws (cover to keelson)
1 pc. Mast step (46134)
4 pcs #10 x 1" bronze flat head wood screws, (mast step to
keelson covcr)
- Drilling & Preparation of the Casting -
The layout for drilling the keel is shown on dwg. 1104. First make up a
template out of 3/8" plywood, lay out the holes and carefully drill six 1/4" holes
in the template. Clamp the template to the top of the keel and spot the location
of the holes through onto the casting. Keep the template. You will need it later.
If you do not have special equipment required, it is best to have the keel
drilled and countersunk at a local machine shop. Six 17/32" holes must be
drilled. The holes are "back" countersunk with a reverse countersinking tool
which is passed through the hole in the kceel and then chucked in the drill. The
countersinking is done by pulling up on the drill. There isn't clearance to
countersink in the conventional manner.
You may wish to smooth up any rough spots on the keel casting before you
put it on. The easiest way is with a so-called snagging disk used with a rotary
electric machine. Your machine shop may have one of these and can do the
smoothing after they drill the holes. It can also be done with a file.
- Mounting -
From inside the boat spot the keel bolt locations from the template onto the
keelson. Make sure the holes are on the center of each floor beam. Drill six 1/2"
holes down through the bottom. Take care to keep the drill square to the work.
It will now bc necessary to set the boat up on a pair of saw horses so the
bottom is about 32" from the floor. With the help of a couple of friends the keel
can be worked into place under the boat. Cover the top of the keel with a heavy
coat of non-hardening mastic. Raise the flange of the keel up and work it over
until the holes line up. Pass the bolts up through and put on the washers and
nuts. Tighten up gradually all around, until the keel is in place. Put a wedge
under the keel so its weight is not earried by the floor beams. This should always
be done if the keel is to be left hanging for more than a few hours, and always
when transporting the boat on a trailer.
S e c t i o n I X
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25
- Keelson Cover Plank & Mast Step -
The template you made in paragraph 2 can now be used to lay out the
clearance holes to be counterbored in the underside of the keelson cover. These
holes should be drilled large enough and deep enough to clear the ends of the
keel bolts and nuts which stick up above the keelson.
Round off the keelson cover so it does not have any sharp corners on top.
Fasten the keelson cover to the keelson with two #10 x 1-1/2" bronze screws at
each frame. Dwg. 1104 shows its location.
Locate the maststep (46134) l-3/8" back from the forward edge of the floor
beam at Station 5. Fasten it down with four #10 x 1" bronze flat head wood
screws. Some latitude is permitted for the maststep location in order to balance
the boat. You may wish to move it after you have done some sailing.
S e c t i o n X
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- R U D D E R & T I L L E R -
26
- Materials required -
Mast
2 pcs. 1/2"x l-7/8" x 23' Sitka spruce
2 pcs. 1/2"x 2-5/8" x 23' Sitka spruce
l pc. l-5/8" x l-7/8" x 4"6" pine for filler blocks
76 pcs. #6x3/4" bronze round head wood screws (track to mast)
l pc. Masthead fairlead sheave (46136)
2 pcs. #10 x l-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws for above
1 pc. Spinnaker halyard fairlead (645)
4 pcs. #10 xl-1/4" bronze flat hend lrood screws for above
1 pc. Spinnaker topping lift fairlead (645)
4 pcs. #10 xl-1/4" bronze flat hend lrood screws for above
2 pcs. Shroud tangs (502B)
6 pcs. #10 x 1-1/4"bronze flat head wood screws
l pc. 1/4"x 2-3/4" long, bronze rod for rivets
l pc. Jibstay tang (502C) size ,#l0
3 pcs. #10 x l-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws
l pc. 1/4" jib tang tee rivet (502R)
2 pcs. Adjustable spreader assembly (46119)
8 pcs. #10 x 1-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws
1 pc. Track end stop (406S)
1 pc. #10 x l-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws
1 pc. Sail slide stop (46132)
2 pcs. Spreader shroud tang (502) 1/4" size
l pc. Jibstay tang (502C) size ,#l0
3 pcs. #10 x l-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws
l pc. 1/4" jib tang tee rivet (502R)
2 pcs. Adjustable spreader assembly (46119)
8 pcs. #10 x 1-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws
1 pc. Track end stop (406S)
1 pc. #10 x l-1/4" bronze flat head wood screws
1 pc. Sail slide stop (46132)
2 pcs. Spreader shroud tang (502) 1/4" size
4 pcs. #8 x 1-1/2" bronze flat head wood screws
l pc. 1/4"x3" bronze rod
3 pcs. 4" jam cleats (jib and main halyard, downhaul (522)
6 pcs. #l2 x 2" bronze flat head wood screws
l pc. Main halyard hook (523P) #1 size
l pc. Sail track on mast 5/8" x 18' 3"
2 pcs. Gooseneck track 5/8" x 20"
l pint resorein resin glue
S e c t i o n X
- M A S T , B O O M , S P I N N A K E R P O L E -
- R U D D E R & T I L L E R -
27
Boom
l pc. l"x 2-7/8" x 9' 4" Sitka spruce
32 pcs. #6 x 3/4" bronze round head trood screws (track to boom)
l pc. Sliding gooseneck (518S) #0 x 7/8" size
2 pcs. 3/l6" x l-1/4" bronze rod (gooseneck to boom)
2 pcs. I~in sheet blocks (509) #0 size
2 pcs. Block travelers (508T) 7/8 size
4 pcs. 3/l6"x 1-1/4" bronze rod (traveler to boom)
l pc. Track end stop (406S) (end of boom)
l pc. Clew outhaul assembly (565)
l pc. Sail track on boom 5/8"x 9'
Spinnaker pole
l pc. l-1/2"x 1-1/2" x 6' 1" Sitka spruce
l pc. Spinnaker pole track (450T) size #0
l pc. Spinnaker pole slide (450S) size #0
2 pcs. Spinnkcer pole sockets (450A) l-1/4" size
Rudder/tiller
l pc. 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 3' 4" oak or ash
l pc. 7/8" x l0 1/2" x2' 10" mahogany
l pc. Rudder post (46129)
l pc. Rudder cap and tiller straps (46129)
l pc. Rudder post cap nut (46129)
l pc. Rudder post lockwasher and set screw (L6129)
5 pcs. 3/16" x l-3/4" bronze rod (rudder to rudder post)
4 pcs. 3/16" x l-3/4" bronze rod (tiller straps to tiller)
Boom crotch
l pc. 1/2" x 2-5/8" x 14-3/8 mahogany
l pc. Butt hinge 2-1/2" brass for boom crutch
(for boom crutch, use leftovers from coaming)
- Building the Mast -
Dwg. 1105 shows the mast and mast details. The uppermost view is drawn
with the cross sections shown in full width and the length shortened to 1 inch = 1
foot scale. You will need a 24 foot long horizontal "table" to work on, so if you
have no further use for your assembly jig use one of the 2x6 rail members laid
flat for this table. The table as nearly as possible should be made flat by
shimming up from the floor. Leave space underneath so you can get the 'C'
clamps underneath.
Stretch a piano wire down the center and about 9/16" above the top of the
table. This will act as a guide for measuring the widths. Slide a piece of sitka
spruce 1/2" x 2-5/8" x 23' under the wire. Clamp it to the table top in two or
three places. Measure out from the centerline wire and mark off the athwartship
dimensions at each station. Leave about 2" or 3" to be trimmed off the ends later.
S e c t i o n X
- M A S T , B O O M , S P I N N A K E R P O L E -
- R U D D E R & T I L L E R -
28
With a spline or batten used as a ruler, clamp this down at the marks and draw
the curves.
Remove this piece and cut it down to the lines. Using this piece as a
pattern, mark off the second piece and finish it down to the line.
The two side pieces are made by lining up one edge with the wire and
measuring the fore and aft dimension from the wire. If none of the edges are
straight with the wire, true them up with a plane. Draw the curve as before and
cut the pieces out.
Again clamp the piece, which was the first to be made, to the table. Mark
off on it the location of the pine filler blocks. A marginal line 1/2" in from the
two edges of this piece will give outline of the filler bloc2cs. The height (above
the table) of the filler blocks can be determined by temporarily clamping one of
the side pieces in place and marking the height off on the blocks. Drill the drain
holes in all the blocks except the top one. It may be easier to cut the bottom block
in two and saw a groove down the center for a drain and then glue the two
halves together. (Even with an electrician's bit it is hard to keep a straight hole
down the center of a 2' 6" piece.) Cut the blocks to size, leaving the top and
bottom blocks an inch or two long for trimming after assembly. Remove the
centerline wire and glue each of the blocks in its proper place to the inside of the
after (rear) face of the mast. Clamp them down.
Glue the straight edge of the side pieces to the after (rear) face of the mast
and also to the filler blocks. Use clamps across the mast at the filler blocks and
plenty of clamps to hold the edges of the side pieces down tight. It will help to
cut up some 3/8" thick pieces of plywood to span across the edges of the side
pieces and also, to keep the clamps from denting in these edges and distribute
the forces. The forward face of the mast is last to be glued and clamped on.
After the glue is dry, trim the mast off to length and cut the 1/4" slot in the
top for the halyard shoe. Round off the corners with a plane and sand the entire
mast smooth. You can now give the mast three or four coats of marine spar
varnish.
The list of fittings in part 1 of this section and dwg. 1105 will be sufricient
guide for assembly of all the fittings to the mast. Put them all on, except the
main halyard hook and the diamond stay tangs. These last two had best be
located to suit the length of the wire rigging. Apply another coat of varnish.
- Boom -
The boom is also made from sitka spruce and is tapered from the center to
both ends on a smooth gradual curve (see dwg. 1105). After it has been planed to
shape, sanded, and two or three coats of varnish applied, the fittings should be
assembled to it. As an extra precaution you may wish to fasten the outer end of
the track down~ with two l/8" rivets made from 1/8 brass or bronze rod and
passing down through the entire depth of the boom. These rivets should be
S e c t i o n X
- M A S T , B O O M , S P I N N A K E R P O L E -
- R U D D E R & T I L L E R -
29
about 2" and 4" from the end and they will prevent ripping the track off in heavy
winds.
- Spinnaker Pole -
Start with a piece of 1-1/2" square sitka spruce to make the spinnaker pole.
It should be rounded and tapered to fit into the pole end fittings. Varnish with
the mast and boom.
- Tiller -
The tiller is shaped from a piece of l-1/2" x 2-1/2"x 3' 4" oak or ash. In the
side view ( see dwg. 1104 ) it has a slight curve in addition to being tapered. At
the strap fitting it is rectangular in cross section and blends slowly into a round
at the other end. Varnish the tiller and fasten the bronze tiller straps to it.
- Rudder -
The rudder is made from a piece of 7/8" mahogany and is sawn out as
indicated on dwg. 1104. The sides can be planed down or streamlined but the
thickness at the center cannot be less than 7/8". Rivet on the rudder post fitting.
The rudder should be painted along with the bottom. ( see section XI)
- Boom Crotch -
Details of the boom crutch are shown on dwg. 1103, see Frame 10. Hinge it
to the deck so it folds back onto the deck. A 1"x 2"x 6" block should be placed
under the deck to receive the hinge screws. Varnish the boom crutch when you
varnish the coamings. (See section XI.)
S e c t i o n X I
- F I N I S H I N G & P A I N T I N G -
30
- Painting -
The way you finish and paint your boat not only makes a vast difference in
its appearance, but is also most important to prevent deterioration, so plan to
spend enough time on this important job.
The plywood surfaces are probably fairly well sanded at the mill, so don't
do more than sand off the rough spots and the putty at the screw holes. A wood
sealer or primer should first be used over he entire hull, excepting the mahogany
(brightwork). Then apply two or three coats of soft chalky undercoat to the deck
and sides, sanding with wet sandpaper to remove the grain effect from the
plywood. Be areful not to sand through to the wood. Two coats of enamel
should finish the job. There are numerous color schcmes used on the 110. The
simplest is one color all over including the bottom, if you plan on keeping your
boat out of water a lot.
For boats which stay in the water, a bronze racing bottom paint should be
used. This is built up directly on the sealer coat. To get a smooth bottom
perhaps five or six coats of bronze are required with wet sanding between coats.
The keel and rudder are painted at the ame time. A boot top (water line stripe)
sets the boat off, particularly if a bronze bottom paint is used. The floor boards
should of course be painted with an enamel paint and the mahogany coaming
and splash board is varnished.
There are different schools of thought about painting the inside of a boat.
An unpainted interior will evaporate the moisture quicker from the wood, but it
also soaks up water quicker from rain or spray, so take your choice. Most of the
boats have the bottom and sides painted on the inside. Don't wear yourself out
trying to get paint inside at the extreme ends of the boat.
You may also wish to consider the use of a rot preservative on the inside
surfaces ~f your boat.
A lot more can be said about painting and finishing but it hardly seems
necessary to write it here. Your local paint salesman will, in all likelihood, give
you all the advice you need.
S e c t i o n X I I
- R I G G I N G & A C C E S S O R I E S -
31
The rigging should preferably be made up professionally. Merriman Bros.
also sells the made up rigging for a 110. Dwg. 1101 shows the rigging which is
fundamentally very simple. The wire is 1/8", 1 x 19, either galvanized or
stainless, and there are five pieces. The jib stay, the side stays and the diamond
stays. The jib stay and side stays each have a turnbuckle at the bottom for
adjustment. The diamond stays can be set by the position of the bottom tang and
later adjusted by extending the or retracting the spreader ends.
The main halyard is 3/32", 7 x 19 wire with a clevis and pin at the top for
attachment to the mainsail headboard and the loop at the bottom for hooking to
the mast fitting.
The spinnaker halyard is "double ended"and has attached at each end a
swivel hook which can be snapped into the head of the spinnaker.
-Accessories -
Essential: Convenient:
Life Jackets Cockpit Cover
Bucket Flashlight
Hand Pump Screw driver/pliers
Anchor/50' line Tape
Paddle Tell tales/Masthead fly
Bumpers
Compass
S e c t i o n
- T A B L E O F O F F S E T S -
32
STATION
NUMBER
Distance
Between
Stations
Distance
From
Station
0
Base Line
To
Sheer Line
A-1
Base Line
To
Chine Line
A-2
Total
Side
Hieght
A
Center
Line-
Chine Line
B-1
Total
Width
(2 x B-1)
B
0 inchdecimalfoot
/inch-
0 0
3 1/2"
(to bow)
20"
20.0
1' 8"
0
(3/8")
(.375)
20-3/8"
20.375
1' 8-3/8"
1-1/2" 3"
1
22-1/4"
1' 10-1/4"
22-1/4"
22.25
1' 10-1/4"
18-1/4"
18.250
1' 6 1/4"
1-13/16"
1.812
1-13/16
20-1/16"
20.062
1' 8-1/16"
8-3/8"
8.375
8-3/8"
16-3/4"
16.75
1' 4-3/4"
2
19"
1' 7"
41-1/4"
41.25
3' 5-1/4"
17-3/16"
17.187
1' 5-3/16"
2-15/16"
2.937
2' 15/16"
20-1/8"
20.125
1' 8-1/8"
13-3/8"
13.375
1' 1-3/8"
26-3/4"
26.75
2' 2-3/4"
3
19-1/4"
1' 7-1/4"
60-1/2"
60.50
5' 1/2"
16-3/16"
16.187
1' 4-3/16"
36-7/8"
3.875
3' 7/8"
20-1/16"
20.062
1' 8-1/16"
17-5/8"
17.625
1' 5-5/8"
35-1/4"
35.25
2' 11-1/4"
4
19-1/16"
1' 7-1/16"
79-9/16"
79.562
6' 7-9/16"
15-1/4"
15.25
1' 3-1/4"
4-5/8"
4.625
4-5/8"
19-7/8"
19.875
1' 7-7/8"
20-7/8"
20.875
1' 8-7/8"
41-3/4"
41.75
3' 5-3/4"
5
18-3/4"
1' 6-3/4"
98-5/16"
98.312
8' 2-5/16"
14-9/16"
14.562
1' 2-9/16"
5-1/8"
5.125
5-1/8"
19-11/16"
19.687
1' 7-11/16"
23"
23.
1' 11"
46"
46.
3' 10"
6
19-15/16
1' 7-15/16"
118-1/4"
118.25
9' 10-1/4"
13-15/16
13.937
1' 1-15/16"
5-1/2"
5.5
5-1/2"
19-7/16
19.437
1' 7-7/16"
24-1/4"
24.5
2' 1/4"
49"
49.
4'-1"
7
17-3/4"
1' 5-3/4"
136"
136.
11' 4"
13-1/2"
13.5
1' 1-1/2"
5-5/8"
5.625
5-5/8"
19-1/8"
19.125
1' 7-1/8"
25"
25.
2' 1"
50"
50.
4' 2"
8
18
1' 6"
154"
154.
12' 10"
13-1/8"
13.125
1' 1-1/8"
5-9/16"
5.562
5-9/16"
18-11/16
18.687
1' 6-11/16"
24-7/8"
24.875
2' 7/8"
49-3/4"
49.75
4' 1-3/4"
9
17-7/8"
1' 5-7/8"
171-7/8"
171.875
14' 3-7/8"
12-7/8"
12.875
1' 7/8"
5-3/8"
5.375
5-3/8"
18-1/4"
18.25
1' 6-14"
23-7/8"
23.875
1' 11-7/8"
47-3/4"
47.75
3' 11-3/4"
10
17-7/8"
1' 5-7/8"
189-3/4"
189.75
15' 9-3/4"
12-13/16"
12.812
1' 13/16"
5-1/16"
5.062
5-1/16"
17-7/8"
17.875
1' 5-7/8
22-1/4"
22.25
1' 10-1/4"
44-1/2"
44.5
3' 8-1/4"
11
18-1/8"
1' 6-1/8"
207-7/8"
207.875
17' 3-7/8"
12-13/16"
12.812
1' 13/16"
4-1/2"
4.5
4-1/2"
17-5/16"
17.312
1' 5-5/16"
19-7/8"
19.875
1' 7-7/8"
39-3/4"
39.75
3' 3-3/4"
12
18"
1'-6"
225-7/8"
225.875
18' 9-7/8"
13"
13.
1'-1"
3-3/4"
3.75
3-3/4"
16-3/4"
16.75
1' 4-3/4"
16-1/2"
16.5
1' 4-1/2"
33"
33.
2' 9"
13
17-7/8
1' 5-7/8"
243-3/4"
243.75
20' 3-3/4"
13-3/16"
13.187
1' 1-3/16"
2-3/4"
2.75
2-3/4"
15-15/16"
15.937
1' 3-15/16
12-3/8"
12.375
1' 3/8"
24-3/4"
24.75
2' 3/4"
14
17-7/8"
1' 5-7/8"
261-5/8"
261.625
21' 9-5/8"
13-1/2"
13.5
1' 1-1/2"
1-5/8"
1.625
1-5/8"
15-1/8"
15.125
1' 3-1/8"
7-1/2"
7.5
7-1/2"
15"
15.
1' 3"
15
18-3/4"
1' 6-3/4"
280-3/8"
280.375
23' 4-3/8"
14"
14.
1' 2"
0 (3/8")
(.375)
14-3/8"
14.375
1' 2-3/8"
1-1/2"
1.5
1-1/2"
3"
3.
3"
- B O O K S & A R T I C L E S
33
"Wood & Epoxy" by Jim Brown
Wooden Boat- Mar./April- '92, #105 - In-depth article on wood/epoxy
technology; it's limitations, pros and cons and future in the industry
"Epoxy Book" by W. Kern Hendricks
Fifty page booklet issued with System Three resin includes user basics and
tables for cure times of various mixes. Good quick read and referance book.
"The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction" by Jan, Meade and Joe Gougeon
300 page treatise on boatbuilding with epoxy.

International 110 Fleet 46 History

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Sunday, September 6, 2009

Historical Building Instructions for 110

Saturday, June 7, 2008

ABOUT THE 110, Specifications, Designer, Historical List of Fleets